but that also still seems like something that I should do later. Though if I could convert as much as possible to 3d Printed parts and still use a belt driven design on the Z that would be cool. So look like it might be best to implement that after building something like the D-Bot / HEVO. I would love to create a shorter cube form factor with a belt driven Z axis, but I see i would have to mill quite a bit of parts and use far more expensive parts. That is funny you say that because I was on his blog all night last night and fell in love with the belt driven Z axis.ĭidn't even realize he was on here until a little bit ago when i was looking around and saw his thread and thought wow I was just drooling over htis last night! "My coreXY design is progressing to the build stage" Let me know what you think and any suggestions. I would like a heavy duty build that will last.Īnything that I didn't mention here that I should look into? if not out of these two, the upgraded D-Bot and Hypercube Evolution which would you go with and why? Do you know something I dont and is there finally a ETA on the Voron 2 BOM? etc. Would be cool if it could be easily enclosed but i guess its not technically necessary. That being said, I would really like to make a 300Y x 300X x 300Z+/. but the chance of the BOM coming out for it is who knows when. Finally everybody seems to be raving about the Voron 2, maybe once the BOM is released i will definitely consider it, it seems to fit my criteria perfectly, looks really nice, enclosed, linear rails, etc.
Next I was pretty interested in the D-Bot / Re-D-Bot / J-Bot (but with upgrades, z-axis wheels on all four corners, 1sPiRe's mods from thingiverse, that makes it way nicer and modern and supports a 300x300 build plate)īut the thing about the D-Bot is i am not sure that v slot wheels are honestly that much better, I know i could probably do a linear rail upgrade, or similar but the fact that there is no sleek way to enclose a D-Bot is also kind of a turn off. I was pretty much dead set on a Hypercube Evolution, then eventually kind of turned off by the Linear Rods. expect faster speeds with an orbiter, and even faster ones with input shaping (word of caution, it's not magic, your dimensoins could mess up warp with excessive use, or use with bad printers (for example, my doot changer that has a wobbly rail.I would like to build a nice CoreXY printer. The average speeds people get are from what I see 2000 accel at 30-40 outside perimeters without input shaper and with a nema 17 pancake direct drive which is pretty decent.
It's not like vorons are on another league, but they're a very decent choice so a lot go with them.Ĭompared to the printers outside the same price range (cheaper) they're WAY faster, more reliable (if you use decent components, if not then nope it's a pain, i'm not talking 200$ hotends, just nothing crap like those no name clones!) and they're probably quieter too.Īlso the Klipper firmware the default option (you can add it to any printer tho) is very awesome in ways, but very annoying/bad in others, thankfully mostly great! ratrig is awesome too (I love how they combine metal parts with FDM) etc and jubilee is a tool changer if you want that.
although it's very hard to assemble from what I heard and also has a really small build area (120x120x120, ther's a mod for 150x150x150 which makes more sense IMO honestly, i'd kill for 180x180x180 but you can probably make that one if you go with the mod, or make modifications?)īut honestly? there's a lot of good printers.
Voron 0 is also small therefor fast/light. They are designed very well/smart and have amazing manuals. Vorons are nice printers if you have money (personally would recommend 1.8, to me 2.4 seems like a waste of money (sorry), but it depends on what you want!, the quad gantry only adds complication IMO)